23 thoughts on “I made a 3d model of a SNES contoller, What do you think?”

  1. I wouldn’t know it’s a 3D model if you didn’t tell me.

    Or are you trolling? You either made a good 3D model or you’re a good troll. Either way, good job bro.

  2. Pretty spot on, the writing on the back looks a little too crisp and the L and R look like they are cut in instead of printed on and the L might be just a bit offset but thats absolute 100% nitpicking. You could fool anyone with it, great work

  3. Amazing job. If you hadn’t said it was a 3D rendering I would’ve just assumed it was a promotional photo. Excellent photorealism.
    What did you use to create it? Blender? Maya?

  4. In terms of a 3d model, it’s very good. You’ve got very good materials and lighting and shapes and generally nailed the colors for your render. Also the font is perfect. So good job.

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    To me though it has a bit of an uncanny valley look, like when a CG face looks off or inhuman. Largely because I’ve been using the same super nintendo controller for over 25 years and I’m actively using them daily to develop a 2d puzzle game, so minor details really stick out to me.

    You can see the comparison here: [https://i.imgur.com/yiC5E7z.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/yiC5E7z.jpg)

    So these are nit-picks about it in terms of capturing the look of the Nintendo brand controller, and not your skills as an artist 🙂

    The bevel around the ABXY buttons is too deep. It’s a subtle indent.

    The ABXY buttons should be slightly higher.

    The L and R buttons should be stretched ovals, not tear drop shaped. This really makes the controller look like a third-party knock-off.

    Select and start should have a curved top.

    The d-pad should be a bit higher. Also, the d-pad isn’t flat, it flairs up at the edges and has a slight depression in the middle.

    The edges of the controller itself and the d-pad bevel should be rounder.

    Where the cord goes in is more of a well.

    Finally the screws should be brass not plastic.

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    But, these are all nit-picks. If this was in a movie or a commercial, no one would even bat an eye. It’s only us old farts that get cantankerous about this sort of thing 🙂

  5. Maybe it’s because the models are different from country to country, but the ones I have are not like that. The L and R buttons are not the same shape and don’t have the letters written on them. Also, the face buttons are much more extruded. More than twice like that.

  6. Looks good! A couple things I noticed:

    The profile on the X and A buttons should be a bit higher and the shoulder buttons have a slightly different curve to them, see reference here : [https://cdn.snailtoothgaming.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/SNES-Controller-Top.jpg](https://cdn.snailtoothgaming.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/SNES-Controller-Top.jpg) .

    Over all, the surfacing on this is pretty well done, the A and B buttons fingerprint on the top left render looks good, but the spec stands out on it a bit too much if you look on the bottom controller render (looks white – a bit too bright).
    The top left controller’s d-dpad shadow looks slightly weird around the DOWN dpad section, I would add a light as the shadow looks a bit dark around there.

    The controller on the right; the super nes controller logo is slightly skewed/bent – it may just be the angle + lighting though I can’t tell if that’s a modified mesh or just a normal map (for example , the (NINTENDO) logo looks slightly bent).

    Another thing I’d add to this is make the screws on the top right controller rotate a little so they don’t look factory perfect (helps get rid of an uncanny-valley look)

    Overall, pretty damn good and I’m happy that you’re using Blender rather than Maya/etc. (lots of people underrate Blender even though it is used as an industry tool.), though most of what I mentioned can probs just be cleaned up in Photoshop/GIMP(if you’re going the free route).

  7. Looks like other comments have picked up on other things I would mention but one really subtle thing that I always seem to notice is that you may want to increase the number of polygons on the cable. It’s less visible on the one on the right but fairly visible on the bend on the cable on the left.

    Always good to check the edges of rounded objects 🙂

    Also I can’t quite put my finger on it but the screws aren’t quite right, some Combo of them looking a bit chunky and the material not looking right.

    Great work, really like your materials and scene setup, nice job with the height map on the back too.

  8. the edges are too hard on the front and the lettering on the shoulders seems off, but this is fucking amazing I can’t imagine how much time, energy and effort it takes!!!

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    Don’t hate me, I was just giving feedback

  9. Really impressive! I’ve been trying to learn blender from that blender guru guy, it’s always fun to see what the program is capable of in the right hands. Even more impressive that it was done without arms!

  10. The edges all look too sharp to me. Should have more of a general roundness and softness. The buttons don’t stick out enough, the big circle around the ABXY buttons shouldn’t be so recessed, and the holes the buttons are in should be a bit wider and softer. Shading looks good obviously, but the model’s not quite there imo. You should see if you can find a real one for reference.

  11. Edges are too sharp on almost everything. L and R buttons just look wrong in general. The embossing on the back might be too pronounced.

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    The aesthetic is right, but it’s far from accurate if that’s what you were going for. It’d be worth picking up a controller (original or SNES-classic) and a set of calipers.

  12. Close enough to be impressive. Missed some minor details, if you wanted to improve it later:

    R & L are the wrong shape/size, the buttons and start/select don’t protrude as much as on the actual controller, the gray faceplace should not be inset down from the rest of the controller, and you missed the center-bottom screw on the back. Text should say SNS-005 (you’ve got a space there). The Entry for the cord should be all inwards and not have a “lip”, and the actual controller has a weird square cut out on the top and bottom of the top-center.

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